Jinja is Uganda’s second largest town which lies about 80km east of Kampala, overlooking the point where the Nile flows out of Lake Victoria. And it is the mighty river rather than the moderately interesting town that attracts visitors to Jinja. The thrilling series of grade- five rapids below Bujagali Falls, rafted by three different companies, has emerged in recent years as perhaps the single most popular tourist activity in Uganda, surpassing even the mountain gorillas of the southwest. There is, too, a certain poignancy attached to standing on the slopes from where Speke first identified that geographical Holy Grail which, less than a decade earlier, had lured an obsessed Livingstone to a feverish death near Lake Bangweulu in Zambia. No less impressive is the knowledge that the water flowing past these green slopes will eventually drain into the Mediterranean, following a 6,500km journey through the desert wastes of Sudan and Egypt.
Jinja has an attractively lush location on the northern shore of the Nile, but submerged following the construction of the Owen Falls Dam in the 1950s. Jinja was formerly the industrial heartland of Uganda, and its present population stands at 86,500, while that of Njeru directly across the river somehow exceeds 50,000. Even though the combined total of 139,000 makes the Jinja-Njeru conurbation Uganda’s second largest urban centre, this is far from a metropolis that straddles the source of the Nile. First-time visitors wandering around Jinja’s compact, low-rise town centre might reasonably reflect on what they can expect of the country’s third-largest town.
Getting there and away
Jinja lies along the surfaced Nairobi-Kampala road, 82km east of Kampala and 131km west of Tororo. Owing to heavy traffic in Kampala and slow trucks along the way, the journey in a private vehicle now takes almost two hours. On the outskirts of Jinja, the road from Kampala crosses the Owen Falls Dam, shortly after which there is around-about where a right turn leads to the town centre and a left turn to Bujagali Falls. The initial section leaving Kampala is pretty hectic, but beyond Gayaza a quiet road runs all the way to Jinja, the road emerging onto the Kampala-Jinja highway opposite Nile Breweries at Owen Falls Dam. This road is recommended to travellers heading to Kalagala Falls, the Haven and Hairy Lemon Island on the west bank of the Nile and you can enjoy this experience on your Rwanda Uganda safaris that can take you to gorillas, wildlife and then the adventure in Jinja.
What to see in Jinja
Source of the Nile
The Nile is the world’s longest river, flowing for 6,650km (4,130 miles0 from its most remote headwater to the delta formed as it enters the Mediterranean in Egypt. Its vast drainage basin occupies more than 10% of the African mainland and includes portions of nine countries; Tanzania, Burundi, Rwanda, DRC, Kenya, Uganda, Ethiopia, Sudan and Egypt. While passing through southern Sudan, the Nile also feeds the 5.5-million-hectare Sudd or Bar-el-Jebel, the world’s most expansive wetland system.
The source of the Nile on the eastern bank is the more accessible from central Jinja. From Jinja town centre, it is reached by boda-boda or a 30-minute walk. From the post office on Main Street, follow Bell street west to the round-about with Nile Crescent, cross the roundabout and continue for 200m along Bridge Street, then turn left into Cliff Road and follow it to its end. The Ripon Falls, the natural landmark associated with sources of the Nile, was submerged in the early 1250s following the construction of the Own Falls Dam a short distance upriver. The site is still of interest, with a landscaped park and a plaque situated on both bank of the Nile as it exits Lake Victoria.
Nile Breweries Tours
Nile Breweries in Njeru hosts brewery tours with pleasure and free of charge. These can be arranged by contacting the brewery and asking to speak to the tour coordinator Herbert Ngobi. Prior arrangement is necessary. After the tour, you can visit a small gift shop selling a limited selection of branded clothing and other items such as watchers, key rings, pens, coasters, etc. for more technically oriented people it is better to contact the technical director at the same telephone number, so that a tour guide with more in-depth knowledge of the brewing process, the business and its objectives can be provided.
Kilombera weaving
This new venture, located midway between Bujagali Falls and Jinja Nile Resort, sells attractive hand-woven cotton fabrics and can provide a demonstration of the weaving process by arrangement.
Bujagali Falls and the Nile
Fifteen years ago, tourism activity on the Nile north of Jinja was limited to a peaceable and rather obscure picnic site Bujagali Falls- a series of impressive rapids about 10km downriver of the source of the Nile- visited by a handful of travellers annually. Goodness, how this has changed, today the eastern bank of the Nile between Jinja and Bujagali has developed into east Africa’s premier adventure- tourism centre, serviced by four bustling backpacker facilities, and an upmarket tented camp and hotel. This is because the 50km stretch of the Nile north of Jinja is now a legendary white- water rafting and kayaking route, widely regarded to be as exhilarating as the more famous Zambezi Gorge below Victoria Falls. Additional activities include bungee jumping, an aerial runway and quad biking. Although most visitors to Bujagali are primarily there to undergo their trial by white water, it’s also a relaxed and scenic place to spend a few days, with the wide Nile fringed by lush riparian woodland rattling with birds and the odd monkey. Tourism facilities are also appearing along the equally scenic western bank of the river; rather laid back setups that complement rather than compete with high-adrenalin activities centred on Bujagali. As a tourism destination, Bujagali Falls is currently headed into uncertain territory, owing to the ongoing construction of a hydro-power dam 3km downstream at Dumbbell Island.
Kalagala Falls and the West Bank
With the impending inundation of Bujagali Falls by the new dam, Kalagala Falls, 28km to the north, is set to become an alternative tourism hub on the Nile. It’s a stunning, with three major rapids pouring between the riverbanks and two large, mid-river islands. The rafting company, Adrift, has secured a concession to develop tourism facilities on the site and visitors can expect to be presented with an extensive menu of water sports including jet boating, rafting and river surfing as well as gentle cruises in search of birds and otters. Kalagala is also a prominent Baganda cultural site: a massive tree beneath which visiting kabakas sat stand on a promontory above the river while a jumble of massive riverside boulders. Alternative, low-key tourism sites on this side of the river are the upmarket Haven Lodge to the south and the budget Hairy Lemon Island to the north.
Activities done in Jinja
Rafting
Rafting trips on the Nile are offered by four companies; Adrift, Nile River Explorers, Nalubale rafting and Equator Rafting. Rafting excursions can be booked directly with the rafting company, or through the Kampala Backpackers’ and Red Chill hostels, or any tour operator. All four companies offer similar one-day itineraries starting at Bujagali Falls and finishing at Itanda about 20km downriver. This route includes nine major rapids, four of which are classed as grade five, namely Total Gunga, Big Brother, Overtime and Itanda. While on the river, you’ll get to see a lot of different birds, and you can swim in the calm stretches of water between the rapids. The long established Adrift and NRE charge US$125 for a full day excursion, as does Nalubale, the youngest company on the river. When choosing any adventure company, see what you think of their safety equipment and ask a few questions concerning guide experience, first-aid training, certificates, etc.
Kayaking
Bujagali is also a top spot for kayaking, attracting experienced proponents from across the world. More testing than rafting, kayaking offers the opportunity to develop your own skills, rather than just bouncing along in a raft controlled by the professional.
Quad biking
The company All Terrain Adventures runs quad biking trips out of Bujagali between some stunning Nile viewpoints using local footpaths and tracks. Day rates range from US$35 per person for an hour long ride to US$125 per person for a nine hour day with lunch. Two – three day trips to explore the Nile Valley are also available, as well as quad bike safari in Lake Mburo National Park.
Bungee Jump
It is located at Adrift’s Nile High Camp between Jinja and Bujagali. Jumpers leap from a 12m cantilevered steel structure on top of a 32m cliff above the Nile and pay US$60 for the pleasure. If one jump isn’t enough, a second will cost another US$20 and the third is free.
As an alternative to noisy quad biking on the east bank you might try horse riding on the west back Nile Horseback safaris.
Where to stay in Jinja
Up-market
Gately on Nile
This Australian managed retreat is situated a short walk south of the town centre. It consists of 2 lovingly restored and lavishly decorated colonial homesteads set in an expansive, 5-acre tropical garden with river/lake views. The excellent continental restaurant has recently expanded its menu to include some tasty Thai dishes, well worth sampling even if you are staying elsewhere in town. Facilities include office and broadband/wireless email services, local travel advice and bookings, and massage by arrangement, twin rooms in the main house B&B, twin rooms in an outlying cottage.
Moderate
Kingfisher Safaris Resort
Located in Njeru on the west side of the Nile, the Lakeside Kingfisher Resort has long been a favorite destination for expatriate families. The main draw is a trio of connected, child- friendly swimming pools of varying depth, shaded by mature palm trees in the centre of the resort. The accommodation is offered in a cluster of whitewashed stone bandas besides the pools. If the sound of happy children gets too much, escape into the tropical gardens extending down to the water’s edge to enjoy the peaceful view, or take boat trip on the lake.
2 friends
This expatriate- run facility provides comfortable rooms with DSTV in an annex next to the excellent restaurant of the same name.
Hotel paradise on the Nile/ Sunset Annex
An annex to the neighboring and rather faded sunset hotel, this smart new hotel is far better value. The implied river view is provided, not from the rooms, but from a pleasant private garden 50m from the main hotel and provided with gym, swimming pool and bar.
Crested crane Hotel
This large, suburban government hotel has undergone a major facelift. The rooms have hot water, net, fan and DSTV, and are good value.
Hotel Triangle Annex
How this concrete monstrosity was permitted to blight the fabled headwaters of the Nile is a mystery. Aesthetic niceties apart, this large hotel enjoys a superb shoreline location between the sailing club and golf course with comfortable and affordable rooms with carpet, hot water, fan, DSTV, telephone and private lake facing balcony. There is a swimming pool and a restaurant serving unexciting but reasonably priced meals.
Budget
Safari Inn
Situated more or less opposite cool breeze, this long serving hotel stands in pretty green grounds. Newly renovated and tastefully furnished double rooms upstairs seem a bargain.
Explorers Inn
Iganga road, near indulge deli, rather the blight the townscape with the usual storeyed hulk, the developer of Explorers Inn has created an attractive single- storey structure in keeping with the town’s period architecture. Hat tipping to history continues inside where an airy and cheerfully orange interior is lined with pictures of the explorers.
Explorers Backpackers
Entering Jinja from Kampala, explorers has long been the most popular budget option in Jinja town, though these days most travelers prefer to stay at Bujagali Falls. There’s a lively bar for residents, with a pool table and DSTV, free wireless internet and laptop connections. Good inexpensive meals can be ordered. Free tea and coffee is served all day. The management can book gorilla permits for Uganda and Rwanda.